Day 7 - Espiritu Santo

Our final full day on the cruise finds us moored near Isla Espiritu Santo when we wake up. There’s a lot going on today! After breakfast, Doug is squeezing into his snorkeling gear and transferring to a dive boat to go snorkel with sea lions. The group doing that goes a couple of miles in the dive boat and anchors near a rocky shoreline full of very noisy sea lions. Apparently about this time of day, most of the adult sea lions are resting up and the sea lion pups are playing in the water. Not a minute after we stop, one of the sea lions slides up to the swim platform on the back of the boat. He stays up there for quite a while taking selfies with everyone. After warnings about not approaching the bull sea lions (they were huge - there was no danger of Doug doing that!), we jump into the water and swim towards the shoreline. Almost immediately, the sea lion pups are all around us. They’re very inquisitive and a bit nippy. One of the guides likened them to puppies. Basically they try to grab anything that is loose at all. Several folks got nipped on arms and butts, but nothing that would do any damage. The pups really love to play and often charge right at you and then veer at the last minute. They also like to nip at each other. Doug got several really good videos of them. The group also ends up swimming through an archway in the rocks which is lined with great coral and lots of colorful fish. Everyone who did the sea lion snorkel seemed to really love it. On the ride back, Kelly (guide) did a prolonged demonstration of the blue footed booby mating dance which was hilarious. Doug also realized on the ride that there were 22 cold passengers who were suddenly going to be competing for spots in two hot tubs. He decided to get his wetsuit and other gear off before we got back to the ship. While a bit chilly on the ride, he was very happy to be sitting in a warm hot tub while the others were fighting to get their gear off.

While Doug’s been playing with sea lion pups, Travis has been doing a skiff tour around Isla Espiritu Santo. It’s a neat island with really odd geology going on. It’s got various different layers resulting from thousands of volcanos, some of which has eroded leaving wave like formations (called tuft) hanging off the cliffs. During their ride, they end up spotting a humpback whale near by. Somehow, they also spot the rare red Adidas shoe and are actually able to capture one. Travis is so excited by this sighting that he’s not able to steady his nerves for a clear photo. Despite that, we think you can see how special it was! There are also lots of bird sightings along the way. Those pelicans never stop eating!

After lunch, Travis heads off to watch the sea lions and Doug goes kayaking along much of the same route Travis saw in the morning. Travis gets to see more of the sea lions on shore but less of the pups under water. He’s in no danger of being mauled by an angry bull or nipped by a playful pup. He likely gets more detail about sea lions than the folks in the water did. He enjoys it and is happy with his much warmer choice. Meanwhile, Doug is kayaking around the bay where the ship is anchored. He gets paired up with Steve from Alaska. Steve worked with the park service for years and has clearly kayaked a lot. The group has Jeremy as a guide (he also did Travis’ skiff ride in the morning). We don’t see a humpback or any of the various rare shoe species found in the Seas of Cortez, but we do spot several rays and millions of small crabs. It’s a really nice ride for the first 75 minutes as we make our way along the coast to the far side of the bay. As we head back across the wide part of the bay, the wind picks up like crazy and we end up with a pretty tough 30 minute paddle into the wind as we cross. Everyone survives, but I think we’re all glad to get to the other side and sheltered from the wind. Doug was wearing his watch and was logging the exercise for the paddle, and feel he earned the cookies he ate when he got back on the ship!

Dinner this evening was the Captain’s Dinner. The only real difference is that the captain stops by and has all the staff who aren’t sleeping come down to the dining room and introduces them all. It’s always nice to see everyone who’s working behind the scenes to make everything go so smoothly for the passengers. Tonights meal is served family style and we end up having lobster and a tomahawk ribeye, which is delicious.

After dinner, Kelly presents a slide show of pictures the staff have taken throughout the week. It’s been her task this week to go through the 3500+ photos and narrow it down to about 400. They’ve done this on all the Uncruise trips we’ve been on, and they do a really good job of getting great shots of wildlife, making sure they have photos of everyone on board, and really providing a good summary of the week. They send links to the photos after you get home. There is a gallery of all their photos below, but we have used a few of them on previous pages when they captured something we didn’t.

Afterwards, we visit with folks a bit and then head to the room to pack. We’ll be heading via bus to the airport immediately after breakfast in the morning. We’re all heading back to a rapidly evolving situation with COVID 19 but will have had a great week to remember as we start isolating at home shortly after returning to Houston.

Snorkeling with sea lion pups near Isla Espiritu Santo in the Sea of Cortez
More video of two sea lion pups playing in Sea of Cortez
Sea lion pup "attack" (at 0:14 seconds)!
Short video with a bit of Sea Lion noise in background. They were truly much louder than this.
Video of humpback whale near Isla Espiritu Santo in the Sea of Cortez

Today’s location

Selfie with the sea lion greater

Hello crazy eyes!

Nap Time!

Comfortable?

The archway we snorkeled through

The elusive red Adidas!

Our kayaking departure beach

Kayaking by some of the “tuft”

Jeremy describing the geology of the island

This area is called something like “Veiled Mannequins”

Just a few of the many, many crabs we saw today

Part of our Surf & Turf “Captain’s Dinner”

Part 1 of Uncruise photos

Part 2 of Uncruise photos

Day 6 - Isla San Francisco

So on day six, we spend the morning cruising south to Isla San Francisco. The idea is we’ll be looking for wildlife on the way, but as it turns out, the weather isn’t ideal, with heavy winds and cold temperatures. No one is real excited about being outside looking for things. Most folks are hanging out in the lounge. Lots of folks are sharing photos they’ve taken of shipmates via Airdrop. During this time, Doug is also trying to figure out how to view videos from his SLR camera on his iPad and ultimately discovers the camera defaults to a video format that doesn’t transfer onto iDevices without conversion . In the process, he discovers several great videos of bears from our Alaska trip that he didn’t know existed!

At some point Kelly the guide offers to teach anyone who’s interested how to use their SLR cameras on settings other than Automatic. While Doug has taken several photography classes and theoretically has learned this before, I little refresher never hurts and he spends 20-30 minutes learning how to use his camera.

About lunch time, we get to our destination and by this time the weather has improved. We end up in a cove that has good wind protection and the sun starts to peek out. It’s starting to look like the afternoon will be nice.

We take a skiff over to the beach in time for a Tide Pool walk with guides Mike and Mareth. This involves walking a short distance across the island to the other side which is rockier. Once there we start walking through the tide pools left by the receding tide. There are lots of rocks and if you carefully lift them up, there are bunches of small creatures to observe. Once done, the secret is to put the rocks back carefully so as not to crush everything you’ve just discovered. We see tons of sea stars, crabs, urchins, slugs, plus lots of things neither of us remembers the name of. The sea stars with the skinny legs can move very quickly!

After a while we stop finding new things and the group starts heading back towards the sandy beach on the other side of the small island. To do this, we go across a salt flat and see an area where locals are “mining” salt for sale. Mike digs some up and everyone has a taste - it tastes like salt!

Back at the beach, the crew has again set up a bar and there are blankets, beach chairs, kayaks, and paddle boards for those interested. We’ve brought over our wetsuits and snorkel gear to do some snorkeling off the beach. As it turns out, this is by far the best visibility we have and there is a great variety of fish and coral to see. Travis gets some great pictures and we’re both glad we brought our gear with us. Even better, we both manage to squeeze back out of our wetsuits on the beach without any of the crew capturing photos. It’s a good afternoon!

Back on the boat at happy hour, we learn that our options for tomorrow include snorkeling with sea lions, watching sea lions from a dive boat, skiff tours, and kayaking. Doug elects to snorkel with the sea lions in the morning and kayak in the afternoon. Travis is tired of cold water and elects to do a skiff tour in the morning and visit the sea lions by boat in the afternoon.

After another great dinner, we adjourn to the lounge for Trivia night. Basically, if interested, you form a team and compete against other teams answering various trivia questions based on info you might have had an opportunity to learn throughout the week. Lead guide Marika is the quiz master and she’s using questions gathered from all the other guides. Of course this means any one individual couldn’t have heard everything over the week as it’s impossible to do every activity. We form a team with Mary Ellen and Nancy, a couple from the Seattle area. Our team goal is to not come in last. Some of the questions are wildlife specific (whale migrations, blue footed boobies, etc.), others are more pop culture (what town is the Eagle’s Hotel California based on), or historic (how many US states or parts of states have been ruled by Mexico). Our team was excellent at second guessing ourselves. After the first round, we were tied for last place (there were five teams). We did slightly better in the second round. In the final round, we held steady and one competing team had a disastrous finish so we ended up tied for third. We were very happy with our Bronze finish! We weren’t bitter at all that the winning team had folks who’d been on this particular cruise three times. No - we weren’t bitter about that at all. Not one little bit.

Short video of a Cortez Angel Fish.
Short video of a sergeant major fish near Isla San Francisco - Sea of Cortez
Short video of Puffer Fish
Yellow Stick Fish - Sea of Cortez

Today’s journey

Mareth with some type of urchin

Mike uncovering a sea star

How many creatures can you spot?

Some of these sea stars have really long legs!

Another type of sea star

Mike with some type of slug or sea cucumber?

This guy wasn’t in the tide pool

Doug trying not to kill something

The salt flats

One of the areas where locals are digging out salt

Travis getting ready to transform to snorkel man

Another sea star while snorkeling

Day 5 - Magdalena Bay

After breakfast on Wednesday, everyone loads up into 7 or 8 vans and drive across the peninsula to Magdalena Bay. This is one of four primary bays that gray whales migrate to each winter to breed and give birth to their young. It’s a pretty easy drive that takes us across several different types of landscapes. We start out in a very green, mountainous area and then gradually transition into flatlands that are much more arid and desert like. We pass large numbers of osprey nests that have been built on polls the government has built alongside power lines along the road. It’s a pretty easy ride which includes a quick break for muffins from Renata, the pastry chef (we gotta keep eating!). Before long we arrive on the west cost at a marina. After donning sunscreen and life vests, we get into panga boats and head out in search of whales.

We have Kelly as our guide in our panga, and we are not at all surprised to learn that she gets really excited throughout the morning. Within 5 minutes of leaving the marina, we’ve spotted our first mom/baby whale pair. We come to a stop and almost immediately the pair comes toward our boat. Apparently gray whales are fairly inquisitive and also like rubbing the barnacles on their backs against the boats. These two repeatedly pass alongside or under our boat. Eventually, the mom passes close enough to the boat that Travis is able to read out and touch her. As it turns out, he ends up being the only passenger (out of 54) that is able to touch one of them. Kelly is the only other person who manages it today (and vows she’s never washing her hand). Despite that, the whales are incredibly close and everyone ends up getting “misted” from whale blowhole blows throughout the several hours we’re out on the water. While we’re hanging around that first pair, there is another panga nearby that has a Mexican family on it. Every time a whale approaches their panga, several of the women on the boat scream as if a great white shark is bearing down on them. The rest of their family, as well as all the occupants of nearby pangas are laughing hysterically at the screams. It’s pretty funny.

Various things we learned:

  • The adult whales don’t feed while they’re down in Mexico.

  • The baby whales nurse the whole time (the milk has the consistency of yogurt) and gain tons of weight before they head north in mid/late March

  • The whales actually have two blow-holes side-by-side that produce a vaguely heart shaped blow pattern (we were told this, but neither of us is sure we ever saw any blows that looked particularly heart shaped)

  • The males start returning north earlier than the nursing females

  • Females typically have a baby every other year

  • One can get a sense of how old the babies are based on how many barnacles they have on their backs

We spot a number of pairs while in the bay, but then ultimately head out to the open ocean for a while (after following a small pod of dolphins for a bit). The water is significantly rougher out there, but there do tend to be a bunch of whales and we seem to constantly be coming upon pairs. There are a bunch of our group’s pangas out there and it’s also fun watching all of them watching the whales. Our panga captain is fairly old and we decide he’s done this a lot. He spots whales quickly and often sort of ends up in the right place for them to surface near by. It ends up being a fantastic morning and we’re both quite sure we’ll never have a better whale watching trip again.

After heading back to shore, everyone loads up and heads to a local restaurant where we have a nice seafood lunch. We end up with a bit of time after lunch to wander around and discover several ospreys hanging out in nests and rolling cardboard school crossing guards. On the van ride back to the ship, we have Renata’s cookies (she never stops baking!), and folks get their internet fix (as we rarely have any internet access on the ship).

At happy hour, we learn that we’ll be cruising for wildlife in the morning. In the afternoon, there will be another beach party that will be the starting point for various activities. We decide to do a tide pool walk and hope that we’ll also have time to do some snorkeling off the beach.

After dinner, the presentation is a slideshow of underwater photography by Scott, the ship’s Chief Mate. He’s recently spent five weeks scuba diving around Cabo San Lucas. As it turns out, he’s a great photographer and has some really incredible photos.

56 Second video of Mom & Baby gray whale in Magdalena Bay, Sea of Cortez.

Looks like we’re falling off the edge of the world!

Or group just before departing on our three hour tour (Doug has packed a tuxedo - he’s seen Gilligan’s Island and knows to be prepared)

Here we go…

Kelly tells us to point when we spot a whale - we may not understand the instructions

Various whale pictures:

Travis touches a baby whale

“Look ma - no barnacles!”

Our panga captain

Look at those blow-holes!

Travis with the crossing guard

As osprey siting after lunch

Day 4 - Agua Verde

Day four brings us back south to Bahía Agua Verde. It’s a bay not far from where we spent the 2nd day, but seems quite a different environment (part of this may just be that the weather is quite nice today).

After breakfast, we join guide Kelly for a skiff tour of the bay. It’s very pretty and there are tons and tons of birds everywhere. Kelly is very animated and gets excited with each new type of bird we spot. She’s brought along a camera with a huge lens and gets some great pictures while we’re out there. Doug gets a few good pictures and lots of pictures of fuzzy things that may be flying birds. We end up seeing blue footed boobies, oyster catchers, white and brown pelicans, red tailed hawks, ospreys, various hummingbirds and then lots of other “tier 2” birds (Doug’s words). We get lots of detail on how pelicans, hawks and osprey hunt and saw pelicans feeding right and left. Near the end of the skiff tour, we watched an osprey hunting and Kelly provided play-by-play. When the thing finally struck and caught a fish, Kelly got so excited I thought she might fall out of the skiff. It ended up being a really nice morning.

The bay has folks living both on the beach and in a small village nearby (one of the options for the day was a trip into the village). The cruise ship invites kids from the village onto the boat after lunch every week to play games, eat snacks that the pastry chef has made and take a tour of the ship (we presume it’s different kids each time). They seemed to be having a great time.

After lunch, we headed to the beach to go on a burro ride up into the mountains. Somehow, Uncruise met this family years ago and once a week during cruise season, they bring a bunch of burros from their ranch, which is a two day ride away. They spend a day taking folks up into the mountains, then down into some salt flats, along the beach, and then finally over another small peak and back down to the original beach. Then they pack up and ride the burros back two days to the ranch. We’re on the last ride of the day so I’m guessing the burros are sick of carrying tourists around all day. Despite that, we’re each assigned one by one to particular burros. Doug is the first to mount up and rides Titanic. Travis is paired with a burro who ends up near the back of the pack. Travis doesn’t remember his name, so we’ll call him Juan Game (John Doe in Spanish). Several folks pretty quickly decide that they are excited about the path we’re headed up or being on the burro. One drops out before we even leave and a second turns around pretty quickly when we start up the side of the mountain (mountain is a stretch - it’s more of a hill, but is quite steep). The rest of us plod along, seemingly with little ability to control our burros. Titanic really wants to be at the front, but the number two spot is taken by his apparent arch enemy, who is not going to let us pass no matter what. Every time Titanic starts to make a break for it, he’s nipped at pretty aggressively and backs off. Meanwhile, at the other end of the pack, Juan Gama stops to eat constantly. He wants to be near the end of the pack, but definitely does not want to be last. The group plods along on our burros with a handful of rancheros from the ranch dispersed among the group. Pretty quickly, they all start to serenade us. At the front of the pack, Doug is hearing what he assumes are traditional Mexican cowboy songs. Back on the boat, we discuss the singing and Travis shares that the young cowboys near the back are singing Mexican hip/hop songs! Our path takes us over quite varied landscapes. We pass over several large/steep hills, cross various sandy dried mangrove type areas, through one area that seems almost tropical (it’s completely covered with palms and has a small pond in the middle of it), stroll along a rocky beach, and finally up & down another steep hill. It’s a nice ride but I think most of us are a bit saddle sore by the end.

We head back to the ship in time for cookies and happy hour (hurrah!!). We don’t have to select activities for tomorrow as everyone is going to see gray whales in Bahía Magdelena. Instead, we get a short concert from the ranch owner. He’s on board with his guitar and plays a few traditional songs for us. He’s better than most of his crew.

After another great dinner, we have a talk by guide Mareth, who tells us all about the gray whales we’ll be seeing tomorrow. We learn about their annual migration from Alaska down to Mexico, feeding, breeding, and what the mother/babies that we’ll hopefully see tomorrow are doing.

Where in the world are Doug & Travis?

Part of the beach at Agua Verde and the site of burro boarding

Small island near Agua Verde

Bird 2 of 25,312

An osprey nest

On the hunt…

An oyster catcher

Cave dweller

Pelican getting beach-side pickup for lunch (COVID 19 quarantine joke)

Doug & Titanic being corralled back towards the group because Titanic won’t stay where he’s supposed to (and Doug can’t make him)

Travis & “Juan Gama”

The tropical oasis part of the journey

Travis and Juan Game are back there somewhere

Juan Gama headed for food

Heading onto the beach. Travis took this picture - you can tell that Juan Gama is in no hurry.

View of the bay on the final descent of the burro ride

Live music at happy hour!

Day 3 - Bahía Concepcion

Last night, Captain Doug had told us that we’d be heading pretty far north overnight to a bay called Bahía Concepcion. Apparently they’ve never gone to this bay before, but one of the captain’s buddies has assured him that it’s fantastic and we’ll really love it. It’s about 90 or so miles from where we were on day 2 so we cruise for most of the night, through apparently roughish seas.

The weather is pretty overcast and it’s turned slightly colder than we had expected (it’s still about 70F but fairly windy and cloudy most of the day). Regardless, after breakfast, we fight our way into our wetsuits (that’s a workout in itself!) and board a skiff with our guide Jenny to do some snorkeling. It’s clear the guides are enjoying a new location to discover. We head towards a pair of nearby islands and based on bird poop, select a place to snorkel just off one of the islands (birds apparently hang out where there are a lot of fish in the water, and where there are birds, there is bird poop). We drop into the water one by one accompanied by gasps as each of us enter the water. Let’s just say it’s quite brisk! Luckily the wetsuits do their job and we warm up pretty quickly (it also helps that we both have some body insulation).

Doug had purchased a mask off of Amazon before the trip as he’s quite farsighted and can’t really see anything without glasses. While not a true prescription mask, it gets close to his prescription and he’s able to see really well. The water is a bit cloudy, presumably because of the wind and lack of sunlight. Despite that, there is quite a bit to see and Jenny does a good job of providing running commentary of things she’s spotting. This is both good and bad as it’s nice to hear what things are, but it forces you to lift your head out of the water frequently to listen to what she’s saying. We see huge numbers of Cortez Angelfish and Sergeant Majors and before too long Jenny goes completely crazy over the size of a Sea Hare, claiming it’s the biggest one she’s seen. She brings it to the surface so we can all get a good look at it, although in truth, it’s a bit of a blog and it’s hard to tell exactly what we’re looking at.

Jenny decides that the wind is really stirring things up so we get back in the skiff and move to the other nearby island on the sheltered side. Once back in the water, things are definitely more clear. We spend a good amount of time snorkeling around and looking at all the sites below us. Ultimately, the cold water takes its toll on a few of the skinny folks and we get back in the skiff and head back to the ship. Once on board, most of the snorkelers end up in one of the hot tubs to warm up a bit.

After lunch, almost everyone on board heads to a nearby beach for an afternoon beach party. They’ve basically taken over kayaks, paddle-boards, chairs, blankets for use and set up a bar. They’re also doing a kayak 101 class from he beach for anyone who’s not kayaked before and wants some hands on training. We skip the class and grab a kayak and head out. We end up traversing the bay and spend a good hour paddling around. After a drink at the bar, Doug decides to give the paddle board a try. We have paddle boards at the lake, but haven’t used them a ton (and only on a lake). Doug’s not too exciting about falling into the water. He manages to get up and paddle around for 15 minutes or so without falling and is feeling pretty good about that (or maybe it’s just the alcohol).

Back on the ship, we head to happy hour and make our activity selections for tomorrow (a morning skiff tour and an afternoon burro ride). Then it’s on to dinner and then back in the lounge for a talk on the gastropods (like the sea hare we saw earlier in the day). She does the presentation in the form of a advice column with all the questions come from various gastropods (for example, one of the question is from a one gastropod who’s penis has fallen off and we learn that this is normal and he’ll grow another one shortly).

A sea hare swimming (sinking?)

Video of Doug paddle boarding

Our daily journey map

More detail…

…and even more detail.

Ready to snorkel (or at least get on a skiff to go snorkel)

Travis with a sea slug of some type

Jenny with the Sea Hare

Travis attempting to stay warm between islands

Cortez angel fish

Doug warming up post-snorkel

Kayaking at Playa Coyote

Doug paddle boarding with our ship in the background

Day 2 - Isla Monserrat

After breakfast, we have our first meeting with the Expedition Team to go over our options for activities for the afternoon (we’ll be cruising to Isla Monserrat during the morning and looking for wildlife as we go). The rest of the cruise, these meetings will happen in the afternoon before dinner. Today we have the option of a couple of different hikes, a skiff tour, and a snorkeling 101 class. We choose the beach meander (by far the easier of the two hikes). Afterwards, everyone on board gets fitted for wetsuits and snorkel equipment to use throughout the week.

Quite quickly there is word of a blue whale nearby and everyone’s out on deck to look. Sure enough, there is one traveling alongside the ship and it surfaces several times every 9-13 minutes. This time between sitings gives the crew plenty of time to share info on the blue whale:

  • They’re the largest animal ever known to live

  • The grow up to about 100ft long (our ship is 232 ft)

  • They live on a diet primarily of krill

  • There are believed to be between 10,000 - 25,000 of them currently, which is thought to be less than 10% of the population in the early 1900s

  • Adults typically weigh over 200,000lbs (in the northern hemisphere)

Various whale watching images:

After lunch, we board a skiff with Mike, our guide for the afternoon. Mike looks slightly like Captain Jack Sparrow from Pirates of the Caribbean, and in fact has a Jack Sparrow Lego Mini-fig on his backpack. Mike takes us meanderthals to a beach on a bay called Bahîa de Loreto on Isla del Carmen. Our experience on Uncruise is that all the guides know their stuff, and Mike is no exception. He’s quickly finding items on the beach, explaining what they are, how they work, etc. We see sea stars, sand dollars, puffer fish skeletons, lots of different crabs, a molted crab shell. As we head inland, we learn about various vegetation (and sample some of it), spiders, cacti as well as details on the geological history of the island. It’s all very interesting and I think we both are happy with our selection for the day.

We make it back to the ship in time for afternoon cookies in the lounge. At 5:30, we gather for happy hour and discussion of our activities for tomorrow. We have our first “cocktail of the day” and quickly learn that our bartender is excellent. From our choices, we select a snorkel trip in the morning and an afternoon beach party for tomorrow. Happy hour also includes a nice assortment of food - perhaps to help build an appetite for dinner? After filling up on food and drink, it’s time for dinner.

All meals are open seating. Dinner usually offer three choices (seafood, vegetarian, some type of meat dish). We both often choose to do half portions of two different things as it all sounds great. Doug is surprised to discover some of his favorites over the week are the vegetarian options.

Each night after dinner, one of the guides does a presentation in the lounge about some topic. These are typically quite interesting and entertaining, AND they provide a good excuse to have an after-dinner drink! Tonight’s talk is about the Sea of Cortez (or Gulf of California) and the Baja California peninsula. Mike covered the geological history and how much that has impacted the landscape we’ll be seeing over the week.

Map of the days journey

Hunting for whale (in the non-lethal way)

Travis on the lookout!

Our meander location

Guide Mike with a dead puffer

Doug loses staring contest

Travis meanders…

Doug on a bluff overlooking the beach

Molted crab shell

Doug with lobster antennas (?)

Returning to ship

Day 1 - San José del Cabo and Boarding

We hung out at the Marriott until after lunch. The cruise line has a hospitality room at a nearby hotel. If you arrive the day of the cruise, they pick you up at the airport and take you to the hospitality room. Since we came in the day before, we had breakfast, enjoyed the pool/beach some more, ate lunch and then took a cab to their hospitality hotel. After checking in and handing over our luggage, we had a little bit of time to wander around the town of San José del Cabo before the formal meet-up time.

It’s a cute, very clean town, but seems to be full of pharmacies and other touristy shopping opportunities. Oddly, for some reason the pharmacies were able to sell antibiotics and other drugs that the ones near Cancun have stopped selling without prescriptions. We asked the pharmacist (or clerk - who knows) about it and he didn’t really have a good answer. He said something about paying for a certificate to be able to sell everything. Seemed slightly fishy.

Back at the hotel, we got some margaritas and sat in the lobbing playing a new game we called “spot the Uncruise passengers”. The hotel was fairly busy and there was at least one wedding happening that afternoon. We soon found that despite the number of people, it wasn’t too hard to pinpoint the folks who would be on our cruise. Basically, if someone looked like their entire set of clothes came from REI, they were a shoo-in.

Finally, our cruise directors (dated Love Boat reference) gathered everyone together. We all were given our name tags for the week and had a photo taken (they put a book of all the photos in the bar to help people learn everyones name) and then we were off! We were on the “odd” bus. They assured us it was because we were staying in an odd-numbered cabin, but I have my doubts. The boat is leaving out of La Paz (where the water is much calmer) so we have a three hour drive to get there. The last 20-30 minutes of that was driving through very slow traffic due to a carnival which was happening along the waterfront in La Paz.

Once on board, we gathered in the lounge and had brief presentations by the Captain, the Chief Mate, the lead Expedition Guide, and the head of Hotel Services. We participated in a life boat drill then ate dinner (which was the first of many excellent meals). We’re looking forward to a great trip.

Our cruise ship mug-shot

Our cruise ship mug-shot

Flight to Cabo and Overnight Stay

Our cruise leaves on Saturday, February 29, but we decided to go a day early to avoid any stress related to flight delays, etc. Although we’ve spent a lot of time in Mexico, we’d never been to Cabo so thought it might be nice to at least spend a day there to see how it compared to the “Mexican Riviera” (Cancun and the areas north and south of it).

As it turns out, we knew nothing. We got to the airport and had trouble finding the flight on the departure board. We were looking for Cabo San Lucas, but in fact, United lists the destination as Los Cabos. For additional fun, there was no potable water at the airport due to the very large water main break that had happened the day before in Houston. As a result, there was a boil notice for water and so the airport had no water. Restaurants were basically only serving bottled items and bathrooms had lots of hand sanitizer and notes telling you not to wash your hands with the water. As it turns out, a number of folks on our cruise had connections through Houston and couldn’t figure out why there was no water there.

Once we arrived in Mexico, we noticed immediately how different the terrain was. The area along the Baja Peninsula is quite mountainous and large parts of it seem to be desert. As a result, the air was much drier and ended up being really pleasant during our stay. It seems to be a big advantage over the Cancun area. A disadvantage was that everything seemed quite a bit more expensive.

We stayed at a really nice hotel (JW Marriott Resort in San José del Cabo using points that Travis had from work travel. Despite the “free” hotel room, we spent a lot on food/alcohol in the 24 hours we were there. That said, the hotel was beautiful and we had a really nice time. The hotel is on the side of a very steep hill and has multiple stretches of it that seem to have sunken gardens along with lots of tiered swimming pools.

We got to the hotel in time for a late lunch and then just hung out at the pool for the rest of the day. It was a nice start for the week.

View from our room. None of the pools are visible from our room but there are lots of large fountains in gardens towards the front of the phone.

View from one of the pools. The place wasn’t very crowded.

These little birds were all over the resort. They were cute and sort of playful.

There was this very large boulder on the beach that was covered with cairns (stacks of rocks). Some of them were started with a rock crammed into the side of the big boulder and then built up from there.

Cruising the Sea of Cortez

We’ll soon be leaving on another Uncruise cruise - this one to the Sea of Cortez in Mexico between Baja California and the rest of mainland Mexico. This will be our third “Uncruise”. They’re a small ship cruise line (typically no more than 60-70 guests) mainly focusing on adventure cruises. Our first cruise with them was to Alaska (which was fantastic!) and then last year, we went with some of Doug’s family on a wine cruise on the Columbia and Snake rivers in Oregon and Washington state (which was also great, but definitely not an adventure cruise). Uncruise provides a notional itinerary but stays flexible and changes plans to find wildlife.

The Sea of Cortez is home to fin, sperm and blue whales (the largest baleen whales in the world), dolphins pods that often number in the hundreds, sea lions (we hope to swim with pups). We’re also hoping that the gray whales are still in Magdalena Bay on the Pacific coast and we get a chance to see them with their babies. Beyond that, we expect lots of snorkeling, kayaking, paddle boarding (with associated falls), hiking, and maybe a burro ride in the mountains. We likely will have no internet or cell service so will provide updates when we get back.

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